This heirloom variety remains one of the most popular red raspberries. Latham bears gorgeous, round, deep red berries that are bursting with luscious, full flavor, and fragrant sweetness.
Exceptionally vigorous, cold hardy plants produce abundant harvests of the large (up to 1 inch round) raspberries. A truly all-purpose fruit, Latham is fabulous for freezing, canning, jam, and fresh eating.
There are 2 types of plants: Summer-bearing and ever-bearing. The canes of both types are biennial, dying after their second year of growth. Summer bearing types will not fruit until the second year, so first year canes just produce leaves, and will bloom and fruit the following summer. Ever-bearing types will produce a heavy crop of fruit on first-year canes near the end of the season and another, lighter crop on the same canes the following summer.
Ripens in late June and early July.
Requires neutral soil, a pH of 6.5 to 7. Will grow in clay, sandy soil or any type of black soil. Use 10-10-10 fertilizer
The top root on the cane should only be 1″ below the ground line. Plants should be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart.
All Raspberries are self pollinating..
Left unpruned, red raspberries are their own worst weed. When canes get overcrowded, they compete for sunlight, causing the shaded leaves and buds on the lower half of the plant to die. Without those buds, you’ll have fewer fruiting branches and a much smaller crop.
Crowded canes also compete for nutrients and water, which leads to small, poor-tasting fruit. And the shady, moist conditions around a dense thicket are a magnet for fungal diseases, such as gray mold, spur blight, and anthracnose.
Pruning is the most effective way to avoid these headaches. A yearly thinning allows plenty of sunlight and air to penetrate the bramble, which means you’ll have bigger, healthier crops and a much easier time picking those sweet red berries.
To prune any plant properly, you need to understand its growth cycle. In the case of red raspberry, the roots and crown are perennial but the canes are biennial (they live for only two years). The first year, they emerge as green primocanes and form fruiting buds. If you have a summer-bearing variety, these buds won’t flower until the following year. If you have an everbearing variety, the buds at the tips of your primocanes will give you a small fall crop, and the buds lower on the canes will remain dormant until next season. As winter nears, primocanes drop their leaves and develop a thin brown bark.
In their second year, the canes are called floricanes. The previous year’s buds grow into fruiting branches and bear a summer crop. As their berries ripen, floricanes begin to senesce. Their leaves turn red or yellow, and they die as winter approaches. A big part of pruning a red raspberry is getting rid of these spent floricanes. To keep your plants from getting unruly during the growing season, cut back any new canes that emerge outside the desired row width of 2 feet; however, don’t touch the new green shoots growing within the prescribed row width. It’s not until late winter that you prune the entire plant.
In fall, resist the temptation to cut out the dying floricanes that fruited that summer. Research conducted at Cornell University indicates that these canes send carbohydrates to the crown and roots well into early winter, helping the plant survive dormancy.